Aloha Oe

What an amazing AMAZING trip. Sorry this will be a long entry, but I wanted to share the best-of from our trip back to the Big Island.

Day 1- We arrive in Hawaii at 11:30 a.m., make a beeline for the hotel, and cheeseburgers in paradise at the Ocean Bar. Upon check-in, we discover that we have received a free upgrade to an Ocean Front Room (tantamount to $1000/night during peak season). Our bellman said the hotel was at low- capacity…. Whatever. I could hear the waves break from my bed. This is our view.

Day 2- Snorkeling in the Pauoa Bay, Hike to the Captain Cook Monument at Kealakekua Bay. 2 mi each way, but on the way back it's an elevation gain of about 1400 feet. Owch. Thought I was going to die, but the trip really was worth it. The photo to the right is the plaque that sits just below the waterline where he was hacked to death. The actual monument is a 27' white oblisk.

Day 3- More turtle snorkeling, and exploration of the North Island, including the Pololu Valley lookout (left) where you can see the waves rolling in for miles onto the black sand beach. Had it been good weather, we probably would have hiked down, but we came upon it in a rainstorm. It rains a lot on that side of the island. In just a few hours, we were in ranch country, rainforest, lava desert and what looked like the African savannah. Our travels were rewarded with dinner at Daniel Theibeaud in Wimea. My #2 favorite discovery this trip. I had duck that I would lie down in traffic to have again. No, seriously. It was that good.

Day 4- Probably our most adventurous day on the island. We drove over to the windward side of the island (one big honkin' jungle), visited Akaka Falls, drove through Hilo, and ended up in Volcano Village at our guest cottage before traversing Chain of Craters road to our biggest/best hike- out over miles of lavafield (estimates of distance range from 3- 4.5 miles each way) to where lava was entering the ocean. Armed with as much water as we could carry, a few snacks, a flashlight and two headlamps, we made it out to where land was being made. Pictures cannot capture and words cannot describe what that view was like. After an hour of basking in the awe of nature, we made the hike back with only 6 blinking beacons- which kept disappearing behind hummocks of lava rock- and our headlamps. It was the toughest hike I've ever done, but also the most worthwhile. We crashed into bed moments after getting back to the cottage.

Day 5- On our drive back around the island, we stopped at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach and the Pu'uhonua o' Honaunau (City of Refuge). Both were magnificent- pieces of the real Big Island. It was so funny to see bus tours stop at each for ½ an hour, take their pictures and leave. Exploring these spots was one of the highlights of the trip for me. We also discovered the South Kona Fruit Stand- a great stop for organic island produce. This is where we bought our macadamias.

Day 6- We were so tired, we didn't even leave the resort today. But we did get a beachside massage. 'Nuff said.

Day 7- Another adventure- one that brought us back to the City of Refuge. The picture is of the Tikis there, but we had heard that the snorkeling here was amazing. That doesn't even begin to describe it. The reef was so vibrant. I'd say the snorkeling here is the best on the island- even better, and less crowded than Kealakekua Bay. This was my #1 discovery for this trip.

Day 8- More snorkeling at the City of Refuge and a touch of shopping in Kona. Our last dinner at the resort- more cheeseburgers in paradise.

Day 9- We check out. I cry on our balcony for a little while…soak in the view and the scent of plumeria before we leave the Fairmont Orchid. We do a little Hawaiian style graffiti (at left- we made a Honu), visit the best of Kona, and fly home.

So many great adventures and discoveries:

• "The Book" - Andrew Doughty's The Big Island Revealed is the greatest tool one can have in Hawaii.
• Turtles are one of the best things about Hawaii.
  
• Always book the Bed & Breakfast Package at the Fairmont Orchid. After that breakfast buffet, you don't need another meal til dinner.
• Rent your snorkel equipment from Snorkel Bob for the week, and don't waste too much time snorkeling at the hotel- get out to the City of Refuge.
• Kayak, don't hike to Kealakekua Bay.
• There is no such thing as taking "too much water" when hiking.
• Eat at Daniel Thiebeaud whenever you can.
• Fresh air is worth a 4-hour flight. Sniff the Plumeria. You will miss it in L.A.
  
• Take the earliest flight there and the latest flight home. Get every moment you can out of the trip.

Above everything else, I've learned how important it is to get away from everything and spend time with my husband. I am more in love with him now than I have ever been, and I can't wait to sneak away from the world with him again.